Ayios Neophytos Monastery sits in the hills nine kilometres north of Paphos, in a quiet stretch of pine and olive country with a clear view back to the coast. Founded in the late twelfth century by the Cypriot saint Neophytos the Recluse, the monastery is still a working monastic community of around a dozen monks, and includes a frescoed cave-hermitage (the Enkleistra) that holds some of the finest Byzantine wall-painting in Cyprus. The frescoes are less widely known than the monastery itself, and reward a visit on their own.
A short drive from Annabelle. Modest dress is expected; entry is inexpensive.
The Recluse and the Enkleistra
Neophytos was born near Lefkara in 1134 and became a monk in his teens. After studies and travels he returned to Cyprus and, in 1159, retreated to a cave he carved with his own hands into the cliff above what is now the monastery's grounds. He lived in this hermitage — the Enkleistra, "the enclosure" — for nearly seventy years, writing theological and historical works, attracting disciples, and overseeing the gradual growth of a monastic community around him.
The Enkleistra itself is the principal interest. The walls of the small cave-chapel and the adjacent cells are covered with twelfth- and thirteenth-century frescoes painted by Theodore Apseudes, one of the great masters of late Byzantine wall-painting. The Crucifixion, the Anastasis, scenes from the life of Christ, and a personal portrait of Neophytos himself all survive in vivid colour. The Enkleistra ranks among the important Byzantine painting sites in the eastern Mediterranean.
What to See at the Monastery
Three things to take in:
- The Enkleistra, the cave-hermitage, with the Apseudes frescoes. The spaces are small and the light is low.
- The monastery church, the main building, with later post-Byzantine iconography.
- The monastery museum, a small collection of icons, manuscripts, liturgical objects, and the remains of Saint Neophytos himself, on display in a gilded reliquary.
A Working Community
The monks of Ayios Neophytos keep the monastic offices through the day. Visitors are welcome at most times outside the long morning service; weekends and feast days are more crowded. The community runs a small shop selling honey, wine, and icons, and a quiet café-style space for visitors. Photography is permitted in the grounds; inside the Enkleistra it is sometimes restricted.
Visiting from Annabelle
Reception will arrange a taxi or private car for the visit. Public transport is intermittent; the monastery sits above the village of Tala, a 25-minute drive from the hotel. Modest dress (shoulders and knees covered) is expected throughout. A small cash entry fee covers the Enkleistra and the museum.
The visit pairs well with Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery further into the mountains.
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