The Old Town of Paphos rises on the hillside above the harbour, where the everyday Cyprus of weekday markets and afternoon kafenia carries on much as it has for generations. Officially Ktima — the property — it is the administrative centre of the modern city, distinct in temperament from Kato Paphos below, where the seafront promenade and Annabelle's gardens sit. Up here, you walk among a quieter version of Paphos: town-hall squares, narrow lanes of pale stone, a covered market that still trades halloumi, lace, and morning produce.